"There's no more noble lineage in American pizza than Rubirosa's: the chef and co-owner Angelo Pappalardo (always called A. J.) grew up on Staten Island working in his father Giuseppe's pizzeria, Joe and Pat's, where the crusts are thin, ethereal and legendary.

The pizzas at Rubirosa are almost identical, with sauce spread almost all the way to the edge and a sauce lightly balanced between tangy and sweet. The pepperoni pieces, no bigger than a nickel, are sliced each day (many pizzerias now buy pre-cut pepperoni, which toughens quickly)."